Some Celebrities Have the Right Formula for Fragrance - And Some Don't
To witness the odd power of celebrities at the fragrance counter, look no further than two of todayâs top womenâs perfume stars: One is a teenage boy. The other, deceased.
Justin Bieberâs womenâs perfume Someday is one of the top sellers in department and specialty stores, and White Diamonds, the scent launched 20 years ago by the late Elizabeth Taylor, tops in big box stores.
But for every Bieber, there seems like thereâs an A-lister who fails to garner buzz when it comes to fragrance. Jennifer Aniston, anyone?
The most successful celebrities to splash their name across a fragrance bottle speak typically to a niche audience, often one thatâs an older or younger consumer.
âThe ones that do well have a strong following with a strong core audience,â explains Karen Grant, beauty industry analyst at market research firm The NPD Group. âLiz Taylor has almost a cult following, and Bieber is the same thing. Heâs all about tweens and the moms getting it for the tweens.â
Celebrity fragrances also are particularly âgiftableâ items, Grant notes, because if the receiver is a fan, youâre going to get the âooh,â at least when he or she opens the box.
Bieber was a bona fide hit and briefly bumped perennial favourite fragrances Chanel No. 5 and Coco Mademoiselle out of the top sales spots last year. Later this month heâll be honoured with the Elizabeth Taylor Fragrance Celebrity award from the Fragrance Foundation. With Taylor Swift and her perfume Wonderstruck, the two young stars revitalized the celebrity fragrance business, up 57 per cent in sales in 2011.
One of the big new launches this spring is Madonnaâs Truth or Dare, and Rihannaâs Rebâl Fleur has been a strong performer, too.
The successes, say experts, combine celebrity involvement, personal appeal, lively fans and a good âjuice,â industry lingo for the actual smell.
Madonna, at an event to celebrate Truth or Dare at Macyâs last month, said she thought long and hard about what her signature scent would be, ending with a floral formula that includes a note of tuberose, which is also prominent in the perfume Fracas by Robert Piguet â a favourite of the pop starâs. âI wear Fracas myself and Iâve been wearing it for years and years and years, and I try other perfumes all the time, and I always come back to it. And I know the reason I always comes back to it is because it reminds me of my mom.â
She wears perfume all the time, Madonna added. âI spray perfume on me, myself like a crazy person. Nonstop. Never want to smell bad.â
Rafael Villoldo, Vice-President of Perfumania, which has deals with Rihanna, 50 Cent and Kim Kardashian, says the celebrity has to buy into the product wholeheartedly. âYou have to look at what they stand for. I wonât do a fragrance with someone who has said they hate fragrance or doesnât look like someone whoâd wear fragrance.â
Next, he thinks about potential customers and distribution, and heâll check out how active the celebrity is on social media because, he explains, no one can get shoppers excited about a product like its namesake.
âLook at the Kardashians. They donât sing, dance or act, other that the reality show, but you look at Kim, and she has 15 million Twitter followers,â Villoldo says. âIf I put on a hat that we think looks funny, itâs a funny looking hat, but sheâll have 15 million people considering wearing that hat â thatâs power.â
Still, he says, that only gets you so far with a fragrance. There has to be quality to get consumers to buy into a brand for repeat purchases. The Paris Hilton line has had unexpected longevity, says Villoldo, who typically hopes for a five-year run with a celebrity, but Hilton has proven a tireless promoter.
NPDâs Grant is curious how Madonna will fare. âSheâs a mature woman so the younger generation might feel like sheâs a little over the hill, but Madonna is Madonna and she has A LOT of fans. When you talk about the most loyal fragrance consumer, sheâs over 50, and youâll have to rip out of her hands whatever her favourite one is, so once youâve got her, you have a better chance of keeping her. â
Buzz doesnât necessarily drive an older woman, Grant adds, noting that Celine Dion has had many years of consistent, strong sales without too much splash.
A star with a story to tell through fragrance has a better shot, says Betsy Olum, general manager of beauty and merchandising strategy at HSN. Does the bottle design reflect the celebrityâs look? Is there a scent note that has a special meaning? Consumers want to know, and theyâll be able to pick out â or sniff out â the bottles that just slapped a boldfaced name on the front, she says.
On TV, Mary J. Blige, Jennifer Lopez and Eva Longoria all connected with home shoppers on TV in a way that a glitzy ad canât convey, Olum says.
âWhen Jennifer Lopezâs mom came on with her, and then her sister texted in, even I wanted to buy the fragrance â and I did,â Olum says.
She was equally impressed with Eva Longoria. âAt the time we were talking about her second fragrance, and it already seemed near the end of âDesperate Housewives,â and we had a discussion here, âWould people still be engaged?ââ Olum says. âBut she came on, and sheâs one of the most beautiful women on the planet, and she said, âDonât worry, Iâm going to get on and be great.â ... And I was really impressed by how she came on and really told her life story. People really connected to her.â
Men take a slightly different approach in their celebrity fragrances than women, however, says Grant, since they buy more into image, using Sean âDiddyâ Combsâ Unforgivable and Usherâs namesake cologne as examples of scents with the âsexy, bad-boy vibe.â Men are more aware of choosing a fragrance that will appeal to their romantic partners.
Current celebrity bestsellers, according to NPD:
Mass market (big box and drugstores), first quarter 2012:
âWomenâs: White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor, Reveal by Halle Berry, Fantasy by Britney Spears
âMenâs: Unforgivable by Sean âDiddyâ Combs, He by Usher, Soul 2 Soul by Tim McGraw
Prestige market (department and specialty stores), year-end 2011, most recent available:
âWomenâs: Justin Bieber Someday; Wonderstruck by Taylor Swift, Rebâl Fleur by Rihanna
âMenâs: Unforgivable, I Am King by Combâs Sean John brand, Usher VIP